The Mark of Culture

Thai people are enriched by ancient arts. They link mind, vision and body between region, belief and ethnicity. Legendary epics, inscriptions and manuscripts; creative memorials, temples and murals are integral to the heritage that we live today. And, their presence is expressed in a particular context, as are the magically beautiful tattoos in this exhibition. From waist to thigh, knees to feet, named for where they are located Sak Ka Lai, Sak Muek, Sak Teau Kom and Sak Kang Kaeng all have meaning for those who wear the marks of their culture.

By tradition, when men came of age in the Kingdom of Lanna, they inherited the tattoos of their own ethnic group. Brought together by a common history and trade, it was their unique talents and capacities that made the unity strong. Khon Muang, T’ai Yai, Lawa, Karen, T’ai Lue or Khmou, they bore the pain and mortal risk of marking their body. By doing so, they proved their worth, wearing the marks of their culture and proudly passing them on to another generation.

Today, principles of belief and local identity have changed. The last man to undergo the traditional tattooing ritual is over 80 years old. The masculine pride of bygone days is vanishing with those who pass. The photographs in this exhibition share these personal stories of identity with those who meditate upon identity in our present world. One might ask: “Out of curiosity, after seeing the beautiful marks on the Uncle depicted in the mural at Wat Phoumin in Nan, are any with leg tattoos still alive?”

I spent four years on a journey, finding the answer, traveling from plain to hills to mountain peaks, entering ethnic communities speaking different languages, to find that we could exchange smiles and that the body could speak. I share what I saw and what I learned, documenting a beauty which most would say, “there isn’t any left” or “had vanished”.

The Mark of Culture expresses my deep appreciation for the friendship shown to me by the people of Chiang Mai, where I began my journey four years ago. I offer to you the portraits of the fathers and mothers who live among you. I thank you for your kindness and your guidance. It was your leaders who led me where I needed to go. It was your families who allowed me to photograph their beauty.

I thank my Pongtongsumran family, and I thank my loved one who understood my belief and my journey.

It is my hope that those who see this exhibition will appreciate the value of this Body Art and pass the images on. It is the identity of a people, the beauty of which would not have been known by those from elsewhere. It has value and meaning for the people of Chiang Mai, their community and the children of these fathers and mothers, making them proud in their way of life and cultural heritage.

As of 2019, Charnpichit Pongtongsumran is a traveler, documentary art photographer; host of the “Kae Kla” show on the ONE31 Channel and Adjunct Lecturer for the Photography program of the Faculty of Architecture at the King Mongkut Institute of Technology at Ladkrabang. He is also a writer, lecturer and founder of Sum Nak Par Art School.